Here my logs I really don't see a difference tony said my wgdc should drop .
he thinks I have a boost leak or vacuum leak.
my boost guage reads vac at -21 is that normal ?
Hey everyone im new here, I just did my Pump flash and everything went well except that now my A/C dont work, i cant do anything with my Vent Settings. I cant control anything in the Vent Settings, what can i do?
Some specs on my car:
-2008 E92 335i
-47.8k Miles
-Charge Pipe w/ BOV
-JB4 G5
First Impressions: Compared to the stock clutch I would say the peddle pressure is about 25%-30% heavier and for reference Payam's clutch (which I believe is a Spec 2+, could be wrong) was about 50% heavier compared to stock. Both were very manageable weights. Now this was probably the most controversial decision of the day but we chose to install the TOB at the low setting. This worried me because it seemed everyone else was using the high setting, but it turns out that it worked just fine. The engagement point of the stock clutch is pretty high up (I'd say roughly 2 inches of travel to disengage), while the Motiv Clutch on the low setting is about 1-2 inches away from the floor. With break in this will raise higher up and I will chime in from time to time to comment on that.
Luckily, on my first try I didn't stall my car, but the clutch definitely has a pretty rough engagement compared to stock, albeit it's obviously still breaking in and it has 6-puck discs. With the stock clutch you could easily keep the throttle steady and slowly release the clutch to get the car to inch forward whereas with this clutch you need to pretty much just release the clutch quickly and let it pop and jerk into place otherwise it will shudder and fight you. This eases up and gets smoother as the gears get higher, but I do expect all of this to calm down with time and miles. Lastly, while the clutch is engaged it is definitely smoother in acceleration and deceleration. Previously, I was having "accordion" issues where I would let off the gas, at almost any given speed, in gears 1-2 and my car would jerk back and forth more so than in other manual cars I have driven. With the SMFW when I let off the gas the car will slow down as expected without jerking back and forth violently which is a huuuge plus in my book.
P.S. I'm not experiencing any notable clutch rattle, although it is there, you just have to really listen for it.
Here's a few simple pictures of the disc and car:
Other Impressions: I'm going to elaborate on these more as time goes on, namely because I haven't had a chance to drive the car hard in the turns, but as for the Rogue tranny mounts, they don't seem to add very much NVH; shifter vibrates a little bit more, but that's no big deal/could be caused by the clutch. I am also noticing a slightly more pleasant shift with the Redline MTL in there. It's not a whole new world type of difference, but it did get rid of pretty much all the annoying and unwanted resistance and notchiness from my shifts that used to be there previously.
Payam should be chiming in later on some of the install details and decisions, but for now let me know if you have any questions. Here's to another Motiv clutch! :awesome:
Recently, I went to a local 1000m race event (Racewars - Australia) with my new build at RAMP Auto Group. I almost missed the event due to work and insufficient time to tune the car.
Luckily, Wedge Performance managed to tune the car remotely and he did that during the event. I owe you one Ken! If not, the car will still be on OFT E40 tune flash.
As for the build, many thanks to the following vendors:
1. Prior Design (Germany) - The widebody kit fits like gloves and according to the panel shop, this is one the best widebody kits that they have worked on so far.
2. Kustom Panel & Paint (Australia) for the widebody kit fitment & paint - The attention to detail is amazing!
3. Harrop Engineering (Australia) for the Forgeline GA1R Wheels Forged Aluminium One Piece - Fitment is spot on with the Prior Design widebody kit.
4. Rob Beck for the upgraded RB - Billet Compressor, Clipped Turbine & Thrust Upgrade. Can't wait to break the N54 WR 1/4 ET with these hair dryers :)
5. Trueform Technologies for the TFT Intake - Thanks for your help in expediting the order! The build quality of this kit is second to none! We did a quick mod to fit the rear intake pipe to clear the RHD steering column. It's not ideal but we got the job done just in time for this event.
Note: For RHD owners, please contact JD75. He came out with a brilliant mod that will allow TFT rear intake to fit in easily without any compromise in performance. More details on post 77 of this thread: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1083650&page=4
6. MOTIV for the PI with S/S Controller - Again, impressive build quality with complete kit ready to rock and roll!
7. Fuel-It for the Stage 2 LPFP Amazing kit and so easy to install!
8. Justin (JD75 - Australia) for the Fuel-It Stage 3 LPFP - Did not manage to install this in time for the event. Nevertheless, many thanks for the rush to get the order through and your local assistance is much appreciated! In addition, JD75 is the Australian Distributor for the RB Turbo hardware, TFT intake/turbo inlet systems, Fuel-It LPFP fueling systems and OEM parts for N54 & N55. He might have some parts in stock and as such, this might come in handy one day when you are in need of the parts urgently. My HPFP just went kaput recently and instead of waiting 2 weeks to get a brand new HPFP from America, I managed to get a brand new HPFP from JD75 within a couple of days. Besides that, it's easier to deal with JD75 as he will sort out all shipping and custom related issues.
9. Advan Performance (Australia) for the Nashin Big Brake Kit (BBK) - A bit skeptical with this kit initially but I am glad that Peter convinced me to get this kit instead of spending double the amount for another BBK. Used it multiple times to stop the car from 260km/hr (163mph) to 100km/hr (63mph) on a downhill slope at Barbagallo and oh boy, the stopping power is amazing and I can do so with confidence.
And many thanks to the vendors below:
Performance - all works done by RAMP Auto Group - Australia
- RB Turbo (Billet Compressor, Clipped Turbine & Thrust Upgrade)
- TFT Tntake (Complete kit with minor modification to fit rear intake pipe for RHD)
- COBB & Wedge Performance Tuned
- MOTIV PI with Split Second Controller
- Stage 2 Fuel-it LPFP
- ETS 5" Intercooler
- VRSF Downpipes
- TFT Dual Cone Intake
- BMS Oil Catch Can
- Custom Built Exhaust (RAMP Auto Group - Australia)
- Zeitronix Ethanol Content Analyzer Display
- STETT Stage 2 Oil Cooler
- Custom Oil Cooler for Gearbox (RAMP Auto Group - Australia)
Braking/Suspension/Wheels/Drivetrain
- Nashin BBK
- Forgeline GA1R - 18x10.5 ET5 - Yoko AD08R 285/30/18 (Square Setup)
- Turner Motorsport MSI Racing Wheel Studs (M12 x 1.5 x 95.5mm)
- AST 4150 Coilovers (Raventech Racing - Australia)
- Front & Rear M3 Suspension Kit
- Quaife LSD
- DEFIV Diff Lockdown Kit
- AR Line Lock Kit
Cosmetic
- Prior Design Widebody Kit
- Custom Velo Racing Seats
- BMW M3 CF hood (Mars Performance - Australia)
- BMW CF trunk spoiler (Mars Performance - Australia)
- BMW LCI tail lights (BMR Autowerks - Australia)
- Gloss black kidney grilles (Mars Performance - Australia)
Photos from Dean Goodwin & Harry Cox - Australia
Racewars 2015 Videos
vs Audi RS6 Avant V10 Twin Turbo (700HP Monster)
vs Nissan R35 2014 (~600hp)
vs BMW M3 E92 Gintani Stage 2 Supercharged (not on race gas)
vs Ford G6E Turbo (10.7s 1/4ET)
vs Ford FPV Ute
vs Nissan R34 GT-R Single Turbo
vs Nissan R32 GT-R Single Turbo (Car No. 24 ~650whp!)
vs Nissan R32 GTS-T Single Turbo (Car No. 107 - Top 3 in the event ~700whp!)
vs BMW N54 E92 FBO
And now videos for reality check:
vs Ford FPV F6 Typhoon
vs M5 E60 Supercharged (when POWER >>> TRACTION & SH*T DRIVER (me:())
I must admit, the spun off gave me a good reality check. I am there just to have fun and I am nowhere near good enough to handle the car if I were to lose control. Even though I do get more power with DTC/DSC off, it's definitely not worth the risk. As such, with the DTC ON, headwind and poor traction, the 1000m and 1/2 mile trap result is a lot lower than I would like.
Ranking from top (highest trap speed) to bottom for the cars I raced against and other cars for reference is as per below:
1000m TRAP & ET / 1/2 Mile TRAP & ET
1. 176.7 mph & 22.1s / 164.8 mph & 19.5s - Nissan R32 GTS-T - Car No.: 107 ~700whp!
2. 164 mph & 24.4s / 152.1 mph & 21.7s - Nissan R32 GT-R - Car No.: 24 ~650whp!
3. 162.5 mph & 20.2s / 155.2 mph & 17.6s - Audi RS6 Avant V10 Twin Turbo - Car No.: 98 - 700hp Monster!
4. 159.2 mph & 22.6s / 150.8 mph & 19.7s - Ford G6E Turbo - Car No.: 141 with 10.7s 1/4 record!
5. 158.3 mph & 22.8s / 154.5 mph & 20s - Nissan R34 GT-R - Car No.: 102
6. 157.3 mph & 20.9s / 150 mph & 18s - Nissan R35 GTR - Car No.: 130 7. 156.9 mph & 21.8s / 151.4 mph & 18.9s - me - Car No.: 122
8. 151.7 mph & 21.9s / 150.8 mph & 18.9s - Camaro Supercharged (700hp) - Car No.: 56
9. 151.4 mph & 23.5s / 141.5 mph & 20.5s - BMW M3 E92 Supercharged - Car No.: 47
10. 150.8 mph & 22.3s / 144 mph & 19.4s - Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera - Car No.: 18
11. 145.8 mph & 23.2s / 140.6 mph & 20.2s - BMW M5 E60 Supercharged (Had issues and better time from last year) - Car No.: 64
12. 142.2 mph & 24.2s / 133.9 mph & 21s - BMW M3 (unknown mods) - Car No.: 105
13. 136.5 mph & 23.8s / 130.5 mph & 20.6s - BMW N54 E92 FBO COBB Tuned E30 - Car No.: 60
This was the 10th time I've run this extraodinary motorsports event and the first time I both won my class and finished in the top 10.
So many people to thank. At the top of the list, my co-driver Brian Hair. Like his dad Woody (with whom I ran the previous 9 events), Brian is a terrific companion for this adventure called the One Lap and a hell of a good driver.
And then the folks responsible for the speed and reliability of my 1M. Jake Hershorin of Motiv Motorsport and Bobby Downes designed an extraordinary turbo system. Not a hiccup (or even any oil consumption) in over 4,800 grueling miles on the street and track.
And RRT Racing in Dulles VA, especially James Muskopf and Wayne Moubray, worked wonders to get the car ready and set-up.
Post-partum depression is just now setting in as I ponder going back to work tomorrow and adjusting to a more "normal" reality.
Sorry if this has been covered before. I know people are not tuning based off the gauge but if I just wanted to know exactly what my ethanol content is without manually checking it out of a gas tank would this kit work. I had read somewhere a few years ago when dzenno was talking about it but was saying you had to get the GM sensor? Anyone use this kit or have any experience with something like this. I know several of my GTR buddies use this.
Hey guys im looking to upgrade my turbos and need some advice. My goals are to retain street drivability while being a weekend track warrior. Im looking for decent power on 91 octane and a 100 oct race map for track days. I dont have access to E85 and dont want to run meth. As we all now the n54 has made great progress this past couple years and there are plenty of options. These are the options im looking at:
Single turbo: since its an automatic a smaller turbo save the tranny and minimize lag. maybe a 58mm or 60mm. Bottom mount to minimize heat.
Motiv 750 - Pricey and 64MM i think
AD engineering - what are the turbo options?
FFTEC bottom mount - not a complete kit i think
Now do i need port injection to maximize gains and or a LPFP upgrade? or is this only required to run 100% E85.
hybrid twins:
RB, VTT
I would run these with inlets to hold power till redline.
pros: cheaper i think, more response down low, and I could swap downpipes to pass smog as im in California. Although I wouldnt be able to pass visual if the tech knew anything about these cars. (on a side note no one is willing to do a catless smog anymore)
cons: more heat during track days.
Same questions here, do I need to upgrade my fueling system if I plan on just running 91oct and 100oct?
Lastly, there are a few companies doing upgraded twins.
A little background on my car, its a 2008 e92 335i 6AT with 62k miles. Upgrades include intake, chargepipe w/ bov, fmic, tune, Alpina TCU flash, ER sport oil cooler, turbo back exhaust. Most of the M3 suspension bits, Ohlins R/T with swift springs, and brembo BBK. I dont have a lsd anymore as my quaife went bad (long story).
The turbo upgrade is the last thing on my list as I first need to get an LSD again, APR aero, and Im looking at purchasing an all aluminum radiator from CSF.
Please let me know your opinions on these turbo upgrades, what type of power to expect, price, and track experiences.
Just wanted to start a build thread and throw in some VM install suggestions for those running slightly different set ups some ways to accommodate different fitment. No, these are not all end product pics. I work long days and worked as I could each night with no sleep on the car, so my brain didn't always remember to snap pictures as I completed various stages of install and repairs.
I am happy to send pictures of anything and help with any questions that people may have about install, related repairs, ect.
Payam was extremely helpful both before during and after the purchase and install of my kit. Lots of updates and and help, anything I needed or questions I had were taken care of. Big thank you to @fastgti69!!!!! Enough cannot be said for this but again huge thank you, I wouldn't buy any other kit IMHO!
In terms of the install I ran into a couple small snags that hopefully my pictures and write up can help future VM kit installs to avoid and/or stream line. These are not problems they are just note worthy for saving time to me, may not be so for everyone or even obvious to some but just things I recognized.
Installing oil return (just keep playing with it till it fits but on the turbo the fitting is mounted on the motor side at an angle facing down and toward the front of the car, the hard line runs on the block side of the manifold not the opposing
When placing coupler from turbo to FMIC pipe... YES it is supposed to be close it is like this on all top mount ST cars there is not a ton of room in our engine bay on that side top accommodate a large single just wasn't developed that way. Don't worry it will work
The 90* fitting on the turbo to the mac is in the way of the intake going on, best way I found to do this is install the fitting and line to the mac facing downward, attach the intake tight. Once in rotate the fitting to face toward the wheel parallel to the ground (seems to be where it was most comfortable)
Coolant 90* elbow seems to want to kink at the angle you put it on at due to closeness to avoid the kinking i cut the water pump end at an angle to seat it more comfortable and at full flow
Run the coolant line before bolting many of the kit items, this will save you time and working with a limited amount of space, you can save the last fitting to the coolant res till later but get the straight fitting on as there is much more room.
I suggest a plastic puddy knife for scraping out the exhaust gaskets as they come apart and stick to the motor like glue.
If you have sneaking suspisions your oil an gasket will leak any time soon or is seeping, NOW is the time to do it, if you do they sell you the aluminum bolts with it (don't panic when there is 5 long bolts left over, I found no place for them and believe it is for the oil pump as if not full removing the sub frame you may need to remove it due to space restrictions.
Make sure you have enough room to work under the car, I did not run into this issue but I can see how it may be one if you are working on jack stands, just be aware more space makes things easier.
If you are running a dual 25mm BOV setup this can work the PS bracket will still be used for the coolant res. Mount in the suggested place and get a nylon spacer to get an exact fit without needing to stack washers. Once done a mark off and cutting of the rear bolt hole with make everything fit well. I used the alternator as a mounting point for a bracket made by my good friend @TT-Tom Thank you for the help! (also took care of wiring items while I worked!) The bracket was made out of an inexpensive slice of weldable metal and some bending and inner corner welded after being molded to proper angle.
Mods/ repairs done at VM install are:
Oil filter housing gasket
Oil cooler housing gasket
Oil pan gasket
VM top mount Comp 6467 1.0AR (screamers)
Oil and filter change
Plugs NGK (gapped to .19)
Valve cleaning
Forge VTA BOVs
BMS PI and AIC controller
JB4 w/NLS and 2 Step and MHD flasher (from Procede REV 3)
3.5 bar sensor
Below are the pictures that I took, if you read through my hangups you'll see they are simply to offer insight into how it all works out/fits and may help prioritize the install though the install videos posting in the install thread on here are extremely helpful along with pictures as well. I also threw in some of various mods I remembered to photograph haha, not a lot here but it's a start.
P.S. Sorry for out of order frustrated from continuously changing it with BB so this will have to do.
on N54 engine with x6 35i, i only have this 3100 boost-pressure control, deactivation code showing (no other code coming) and cannot clear or delete it. no leak on any connection. is this could be solenoid pressure converter or wastegate? i replaced both intake and exhaus solenoid and HPFP. i forgot, this code will show up everyday when start the engine and will off when i drive for a while and turn off then engine and restart the engine. when error code show up, the car run poorly at low speed but high speed is seem very smooth. thank you so much for your help...
Hi guys I'm doing tests with a 1m and flashe with ije0s_race.bin but it does not work the M button on her wheel. my question is if there is a flash that is available to 1m ??.I excuse my English but I'm from Argentina and I can hardly relate.
also I have another question I have the original file on auto .org .bin to make it as I do with the tuner pro ?? .xdf will be possible to get the file related to the original file is ikd0s 1m
I am not sure if this is the best location for this but if not, Sticky, please help me out and put it where you need to. It seems like a decent deal. Pretty much half price. Sometimes deals like this make me wish I had a 3 series instead of a 5...
According to the website,
This product fits 8 vehicle variants.
BMW 3 Series (E21,E30,E36,E46,E90,E91,E92,E93): 2 models, 8 variants between 2009 and 2012.
Here my logs I really don't see a difference tony said my wgdc should drop .
he thinks I have a boost leak or vacuum leak.
my boost guage reads vac at -21 is that normal ?
Hey everyone im new here, I just did my Pump flash and everything went well except that now my A/C dont work, i cant do anything with my Vent Settings. I cant control anything in the Vent Settings, what can i do?
Some specs on my car:
-2008 E92 335i
-47.8k Miles
-Charge Pipe w/ BOV
-JB4 G5
First Impressions: Compared to the stock clutch I would say the peddle pressure is about 25%-30% heavier and for reference Payam's clutch (which I believe is a Spec 2+, could be wrong) was about 50% heavier compared to stock. Both were very manageable weights. Now this was probably the most controversial decision of the day but we chose to install the TOB at the low setting. This worried me because it seemed everyone else was using the high setting, but it turns out that it worked just fine. The engagement point of the stock clutch is pretty high up (I'd say roughly 2 inches of travel to disengage), while the Motiv Clutch on the low setting is about 1-2 inches away from the floor. With break in this will raise higher up and I will chime in from time to time to comment on that.
Luckily, on my first try I didn't stall my car, but the clutch definitely has a pretty rough engagement compared to stock, albeit it's obviously still breaking in and it has 6-puck discs. With the stock clutch you could easily keep the throttle steady and slowly release the clutch to get the car to inch forward whereas with this clutch you need to pretty much just release the clutch quickly and let it pop and jerk into place otherwise it will shudder and fight you. This eases up and gets smoother as the gears get higher, but I do expect all of this to calm down with time and miles. Lastly, while the clutch is engaged it is definitely smoother in acceleration and deceleration. Previously, I was having "accordion" issues where I would let off the gas, at almost any given speed, in gears 1-2 and my car would jerk back and forth more so than in other manual cars I have driven. With the SMFW when I let off the gas the car will slow down as expected without jerking back and forth violently which is a huuuge plus in my book.
P.S. I'm not experiencing any notable clutch rattle, although it is there, you just have to really listen for it.
Here's a few simple pictures of the disc and car:
Other Impressions: I'm going to elaborate on these more as time goes on, namely because I haven't had a chance to drive the car hard in the turns, but as for the Rogue tranny mounts, they don't seem to add very much NVH; shifter vibrates a little bit more, but that's no big deal/could be caused by the clutch. I am also noticing a slightly more pleasant shift with the Redline MTL in there. It's not a whole new world type of difference, but it did get rid of pretty much all the annoying and unwanted resistance and notchiness from my shifts that used to be there previously.
Payam should be chiming in later on some of the install details and decisions, but for now let me know if you have any questions. Here's to another Motiv clutch! :awesome:
Recently, I went to a local 1000m race event (Racewars - Australia) with my new build at RAMP Auto Group. I almost missed the event due to work and insufficient time to tune the car.
Luckily, Wedge Performance managed to tune the car remotely and he did that during the event. I owe you one Ken! If not, the car will still be on OFT E40 tune flash.
As for the build, many thanks to the following vendors:
1. Prior Design (Germany) - The widebody kit fits like gloves and according to the panel shop, this is one the best widebody kits that they have worked on so far.
2. Kustom Panel & Paint (Australia) for the widebody kit fitment & paint - The attention to detail is amazing!
3. Harrop Engineering (Australia) for the Forgeline GA1R Wheels Forged Aluminium One Piece - Fitment is spot on with the Prior Design widebody kit.
4. Rob Beck for the upgraded RB - Billet Compressor, Clipped Turbine & Thrust Upgrade. Can't wait to break the N54 WR 1/4 ET with these hair dryers :)
5. Trueform Technologies for the TFT Intake - Thanks for your help in expediting the order! The build quality of this kit is second to none! We did a quick mod to fit the rear intake pipe to clear the RHD steering column. It's not ideal but we got the job done just in time for this event.
Note: For RHD owners, please contact JD75. He came out with a brilliant mod that will allow TFT rear intake to fit in easily without any compromise in performance. More details on post 77 of this thread: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1083650&page=4
6. MOTIV for the PI with S/S Controller - Again, impressive build quality with complete kit ready to rock and roll!
7. Fuel-It for the Stage 2 LPFP Amazing kit and so easy to install!
8. Justin (JD75 - Australia) for the Fuel-It Stage 3 LPFP - Did not manage to install this in time for the event. Nevertheless, many thanks for the rush to get the order through and your local assistance is much appreciated! In addition, JD75 is the Australian Distributor for the RB Turbo hardware, TFT intake/turbo inlet systems, Fuel-It LPFP fueling systems and OEM parts for N54 & N55. He might have some parts in stock and as such, this might come in handy one day when you are in need of the parts urgently. My HPFP just went kaput recently and instead of waiting 2 weeks to get a brand new HPFP from America, I managed to get a brand new HPFP from JD75 within a couple of days. Besides that, it's easier to deal with JD75 as he will sort out all shipping and custom related issues.
9. Advan Performance (Australia) for the Nashin Big Brake Kit (BBK) - A bit skeptical with this kit initially but I am glad that Peter convinced me to get this kit instead of spending double the amount for another BBK. Used it multiple times to stop the car from 260km/hr (163mph) to 100km/hr (63mph) on a downhill slope at Barbagallo and oh boy, the stopping power is amazing and I can do so with confidence.
And many thanks to the vendors below:
Performance - all works done by RAMP Auto Group - Australia
- RB Turbo (Billet Compressor, Clipped Turbine & Thrust Upgrade)
- TFT Tntake (Complete kit with minor modification to fit rear intake pipe for RHD)
- COBB & Wedge Performance Tuned
- MOTIV PI with Split Second Controller
- Stage 2 Fuel-it LPFP
- ETS 5" Intercooler
- VRSF Downpipes
- TFT Dual Cone Intake
- BMS Oil Catch Can
- Custom Built Exhaust (RAMP Auto Group - Australia)
- Zeitronix Ethanol Content Analyzer Display
- STETT Stage 2 Oil Cooler
- Custom Oil Cooler for Gearbox (RAMP Auto Group - Australia)
Braking/Suspension/Wheels/Drivetrain
- Nashin BBK
- Forgeline GA1R - 18x10.5 ET5 - Yoko AD08R 285/30/18 (Square Setup)
- Turner Motorsport MSI Racing Wheel Studs (M12 x 1.5 x 95.5mm)
- AST 4150 Coilovers (Raventech Racing - Australia)
- Front & Rear M3 Suspension Kit
- Quaife LSD
- DEFIV Diff Lockdown Kit
- AR Line Lock Kit
Cosmetic
- Prior Design Widebody Kit
- Custom Velo Racing Seats
- BMW M3 CF hood (Mars Performance - Australia)
- BMW CF trunk spoiler (Mars Performance - Australia)
- BMW LCI tail lights (BMR Autowerks - Australia)
- Gloss black kidney grilles (Mars Performance - Australia)
Photos from Dean Goodwin & Harry Cox - Australia
Racewars 2015 Videos
vs Audi RS6 Avant V10 Twin Turbo (700HP Monster)
vs Nissan R35 2014 (~600hp)
vs BMW M3 E92 Gintani Stage 2 Supercharged (not on race gas)
vs Ford G6E Turbo (10.7s 1/4ET)
vs Ford FPV Ute
vs Nissan R34 GT-R Single Turbo
vs Nissan R32 GT-R Single Turbo (Car No. 24 ~650whp!)
vs Nissan R32 GTS-T Single Turbo (Car No. 107 - Top 3 in the event ~700whp!)
vs BMW N54 E92 FBO
And now videos for reality check:
vs Ford FPV F6 Typhoon
vs M5 E60 Supercharged (when POWER >>> TRACTION & SH*T DRIVER (me:())
I must admit, the spun off gave me a good reality check. I am there just to have fun and I am nowhere near good enough to handle the car if I were to lose control. Even though I do get more power with DTC/DSC off, it's definitely not worth the risk. As such, with the DTC ON, headwind and poor traction, the 1000m and 1/2 mile trap result is a lot lower than I would like.
Ranking from top (highest trap speed) to bottom for the cars I raced against and other cars for reference is as per below:
1000m TRAP & ET / 1/2 Mile TRAP & ET
1. 176.7 mph & 22.1s / 164.8 mph & 19.5s - Nissan R32 GTS-T - Car No.: 107 ~700whp!
2. 164 mph & 24.4s / 152.1 mph & 21.7s - Nissan R32 GT-R - Car No.: 24 ~650whp!
3. 162.5 mph & 20.2s / 155.2 mph & 17.6s - Audi RS6 Avant V10 Twin Turbo - Car No.: 98 - 700hp Monster!
4. 159.2 mph & 22.6s / 150.8 mph & 19.7s - Ford G6E Turbo - Car No.: 141 with 10.7s 1/4 record!
5. 158.3 mph & 22.8s / 154.5 mph & 20s - Nissan R34 GT-R - Car No.: 102
6. 157.3 mph & 20.9s / 150 mph & 18s - Nissan R35 GTR - Car No.: 130 7. 156.9 mph & 21.8s / 151.4 mph & 18.9s - me - Car No.: 122
8. 151.7 mph & 21.9s / 150.8 mph & 18.9s - Camaro Supercharged (700hp) - Car No.: 56
9. 151.4 mph & 23.5s / 141.5 mph & 20.5s - BMW M3 E92 Supercharged - Car No.: 47
10. 150.8 mph & 22.3s / 144 mph & 19.4s - Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera - Car No.: 18
11. 145.8 mph & 23.2s / 140.6 mph & 20.2s - BMW M5 E60 Supercharged (Had issues and better time from last year) - Car No.: 64
12. 142.2 mph & 24.2s / 133.9 mph & 21s - BMW M3 (unknown mods) - Car No.: 105
13. 136.5 mph & 23.8s / 130.5 mph & 20.6s - BMW N54 E92 FBO COBB Tuned E30 - Car No.: 60
This was the 10th time I've run this extraodinary motorsports event and the first time I both won my class and finished in the top 10.
So many people to thank. At the top of the list, my co-driver Brian Hair. Like his dad Woody (with whom I ran the previous 9 events), Brian is a terrific companion for this adventure called the One Lap and a hell of a good driver.
And then the folks responsible for the speed and reliability of my 1M. Jake Hershorin of Motiv Motorsport and Bobby Downes designed an extraordinary turbo system. Not a hiccup (or even any oil consumption) in over 4,800 grueling miles on the street and track.
And RRT Racing in Dulles VA, especially James Muskopf and Wayne Moubray, worked wonders to get the car ready and set-up.
Post-partum depression is just now setting in as I ponder going back to work tomorrow and adjusting to a more "normal" reality.
Sorry if this has been covered before. I know people are not tuning based off the gauge but if I just wanted to know exactly what my ethanol content is without manually checking it out of a gas tank would this kit work. I had read somewhere a few years ago when dzenno was talking about it but was saying you had to get the GM sensor? Anyone use this kit or have any experience with something like this. I know several of my GTR buddies use this.
Hey guys im looking to upgrade my turbos and need some advice. My goals are to retain street drivability while being a weekend track warrior. Im looking for decent power on 91 octane and a 100 oct race map for track days. I dont have access to E85 and dont want to run meth. As we all now the n54 has made great progress this past couple years and there are plenty of options. These are the options im looking at:
Single turbo: since its an automatic a smaller turbo save the tranny and minimize lag. maybe a 58mm or 60mm. Bottom mount to minimize heat.
Motiv 750 - Pricey and 64MM i think
AD engineering - what are the turbo options?
FFTEC bottom mount - not a complete kit i think
Now do i need port injection to maximize gains and or a LPFP upgrade? or is this only required to run 100% E85.
hybrid twins:
RB, VTT
I would run these with inlets to hold power till redline.
pros: cheaper i think, more response down low, and I could swap downpipes to pass smog as im in California. Although I wouldnt be able to pass visual if the tech knew anything about these cars. (on a side note no one is willing to do a catless smog anymore)
cons: more heat during track days.
Same questions here, do I need to upgrade my fueling system if I plan on just running 91oct and 100oct?
Lastly, there are a few companies doing upgraded twins.
A little background on my car, its a 2008 e92 335i 6AT with 62k miles. Upgrades include intake, chargepipe w/ bov, fmic, tune, Alpina TCU flash, ER sport oil cooler, turbo back exhaust. Most of the M3 suspension bits, Ohlins R/T with swift springs, and brembo BBK. I dont have a lsd anymore as my quaife went bad (long story).
The turbo upgrade is the last thing on my list as I first need to get an LSD again, APR aero, and Im looking at purchasing an all aluminum radiator from CSF.
Please let me know your opinions on these turbo upgrades, what type of power to expect, price, and track experiences.
Just wanted to start a build thread and throw in some VM install suggestions for those running slightly different set ups some ways to accommodate different fitment. No, these are not all end product pics. I work long days and worked as I could each night with no sleep on the car, so my brain didn't always remember to snap pictures as I completed various stages of install and repairs.
I am happy to send pictures of anything and help with any questions that people may have about install, related repairs, ect.
Payam was extremely helpful both before during and after the purchase and install of my kit. Lots of updates and and help, anything I needed or questions I had were taken care of. Big thank you to @fastgti69!!!!! Enough cannot be said for this but again huge thank you, I wouldn't buy any other kit IMHO!
In terms of the install I ran into a couple small snags that hopefully my pictures and write up can help future VM kit installs to avoid and/or stream line. These are not problems they are just note worthy for saving time to me, may not be so for everyone or even obvious to some but just things I recognized.
Installing oil return (just keep playing with it till it fits but on the turbo the fitting is mounted on the motor side at an angle facing down and toward the front of the car, the hard line runs on the block side of the manifold not the opposing
When placing coupler from turbo to FMIC pipe... YES it is supposed to be close it is like this on all top mount ST cars there is not a ton of room in our engine bay on that side top accommodate a large single just wasn't developed that way. Don't worry it will work
The 90* fitting on the turbo to the mac is in the way of the intake going on, best way I found to do this is install the fitting and line to the mac facing downward, attach the intake tight. Once in rotate the fitting to face toward the wheel parallel to the ground (seems to be where it was most comfortable)
Coolant 90* elbow seems to want to kink at the angle you put it on at due to closeness to avoid the kinking i cut the water pump end at an angle to seat it more comfortable and at full flow
Run the coolant line before bolting many of the kit items, this will save you time and working with a limited amount of space, you can save the last fitting to the coolant res till later but get the straight fitting on as there is much more room.
I suggest a plastic puddy knife for scraping out the exhaust gaskets as they come apart and stick to the motor like glue.
If you have sneaking suspisions your oil an gasket will leak any time soon or is seeping, NOW is the time to do it, if you do they sell you the aluminum bolts with it (don't panic when there is 5 long bolts left over, I found no place for them and believe it is for the oil pump as if not full removing the sub frame you may need to remove it due to space restrictions.
Make sure you have enough room to work under the car, I did not run into this issue but I can see how it may be one if you are working on jack stands, just be aware more space makes things easier.
If you are running a dual 25mm BOV setup this can work the PS bracket will still be used for the coolant res. Mount in the suggested place and get a nylon spacer to get an exact fit without needing to stack washers. Once done a mark off and cutting of the rear bolt hole with make everything fit well. I used the alternator as a mounting point for a bracket made by my good friend @TT-Tom Thank you for the help! (also took care of wiring items while I worked!) The bracket was made out of an inexpensive slice of weldable metal and some bending and inner corner welded after being molded to proper angle.
Mods/ repairs done at VM install are:
Oil filter housing gasket
Oil cooler housing gasket
Oil pan gasket
VM top mount Comp 6467 1.0AR (screamers)
Oil and filter change
Plugs NGK (gapped to .19)
Valve cleaning
Forge VTA BOVs
BMS PI and AIC controller
JB4 w/NLS and 2 Step and MHD flasher (from Procede REV 3)
3.5 bar sensor
Below are the pictures that I took, if you read through my hangups you'll see they are simply to offer insight into how it all works out/fits and may help prioritize the install though the install videos posting in the install thread on here are extremely helpful along with pictures as well. I also threw in some of various mods I remembered to photograph haha, not a lot here but it's a start.
P.S. Sorry for out of order frustrated from continuously changing it with BB so this will have to do.
