Quantcast
Channel: BimmerBoost - N54, N55, S55, N52
Viewing all 16270 articles
Browse latest View live

BB Flash Basics, Startup, and FAQ

$
0
0
Hey guys. It seems the BB Flash is starting to become more and more widely used. Being that, more and more issues are going to pop up. I am not a tuning expert, and I have not even used this flash...yet. (plan to in the next couple days when I pickup my car).

I am simply going to put together known information about the flash now and the FAQs I am aware of. Please if you know of or have experienced any issues any fixed them or not, please post. Once more information is in here I will copy paste and compile a better one post summary for Sticky to bump to the top and hopefully make a sticky. I know Terry has a pretty good write up over on N54tech but it is geared toward using BB Flash as a backend flash and it's on his site, so I figured I would make a new thread here.

First things first.

What is BB Flash?

BB Flash is a open source flash tuning program designed to supported by the community and offered for free for people to create their own tuning maps or use maps shared by others in the community to flash to their own cars for free. These maps are unlockable and are a much more "complete" flash to the DME. Currently only the N54 is supported.

What is open source?

Open source means the program is completely open. From the maps (.bin files) the .xdf (file used to interpret the coding of the .bin into actual tunable tables) and the software code itself for the program are all open files that users can build upon themselves making the program better and better. Again, I am no tuning expert, and I have no idea if the .xdf has any reason to ever be altered at this point but someone feels the need to know what is in there, it is there for you. NOTHING IS LOCKED IN OPEN SOURCE.

Can I use BB Flash as a backend flash in conjunction with my JB4?

Yes you can! In fact, Terry has a complete layout on how to do this on his forum n54tech.com The specific link is http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2056


How do I get BB Flash and where do I start?

You can find the BB Flash software in the downloads section of this forum. Link --->http://www.bimmerboost.com/vbdownloads.php?categoryid=1

First though, you need a BT (Bavarian Technic) Cable. This is the cable you will use to connect your computer running the BB Flash to your vehicle via the OBDII port. There are plenty of places you can buy this cable. And should be noted that you do NOT need a cable with any VIN's left. It is OK to purchase someone's used 1 VIN cable for BB Flash, however I recommend purchasing one with at least 1 VIN so that you can use the BT Cable software for other features it has.

Here's a link to one vendor that sells the cable --> http://burgertuning.com/scanner.html

Once you have the cable and have downloaded a map that someone shared with you, or you got from the download section here you can procede to the following:(WARNING: Although BB Flash has been successfully used on many vehicles this is not a commercially sold product and support is limited to the community and its users, with any aftermarket OEM altering software or hardware there are risks involved in using it. If you do not understand what flash tuning is and this is your first aftermarket upgrade to your vehicle, chances are this is NOT the program for you. I recommend looking into COBB or Burger Tuning for other tuning sources that offer support with any issues you may have using their product)

1) Install BB Flash Software on your computer
2) Plug in your BT Cable from your computer to your OBDII port of your vehicle. (Like others, I recommend doing this at home so that if you do run into a problem you are not left stranded somewhere trying to fix it)
3) Click the button "Identify DME" check your DME code and be sure the file you downloaded is specifically for your DME type.
4) This next step is rather important. You want to read your DME's current file and save this file in a safe place on your computer. This will be your stock "map" file and can be reloaded later if you incur other issues loading modified files. DO NOT PROCEED IF YOUR VOLTAGE IS AT 0 IN THE BB FLASH HOMESCREEN. If you have an 07 or older N54 it is recommended that you connect a charger to your vehicle is these DME's known as "K-line" are more sensitive to low voltage and can cause incomplete read/writing of the DME files.

Yes, some nice people have loaded their own stock files to the download section, but that risk is up to you.

The Read portion will take some time, Over an hour in some cases, so do not be alarmed if you see a long wait time. However, if your wait time seems out of the ordinary, as in 2+ hours, it may be the computer you are using. A list of computers/processors/etc. that are known to work well will be compiled. Currently it seems either old antique laptops sitting around or the latest and greatest both seem to work the best.

5. Write your new file to the DME. Click Write to DME and select the .bin file you either modified or downloaded. The write should not take nearly as long as the read, however the initial write may still take some time. After the first write, additional writes are ~10 minutes.

6. BB Flash software will notify you with a status bar when the flash is complete. (If you had an incomplete flash please see below in the troubleshooting section) You are now complete and may unplug your BT cable from your vehicle, start the car and check out your new flash!



Where do I get maps for BB Flash?

Lots of maps are available for the BB Flash via the downloads section here at bimmerboost.com

Here's a link- http://www.bimmerboost.com/vbdownloads.php?categoryid=1

How do I modify/create my own maps?

You will need to make sure you have the .xdf file for your specific DME code. Once you have this you need to download tunerpro. You can get this from their website. http://www.tunerpro.net/

This is again, free software, but I believe they have a paid version that offers some more features.

There is plenty to read up on tunerpro and I am not going to get into altering maps. If you do want to play around I recommend starting off with the compare feature and just comparing a stock .bin to some other modified .bin files others have uploaded and see where the changes are. When you have questions on specific tables, research those tables names' and find out what they do.


Troubleshooting:

My voltage is 0 what should I do?:

You may need to click "read DME" multiple times for your voltage to show up. Sometimes this is caused by your computer software not communicating properly. Also it may not be a bad idea to have a charger hooked up to your car during your first read/write as they are lengthy. Usually not necessary for additional writes.

I was writing a map and it stopped before completion?:

This is known as a partial write and may show up as an "authentication error". The write process happens in three stages, and if it fails during any of these stages the firmware on the DME is incomplete and will not operate the vehicle. This is probably caused by voltage. Make sure you have a charger on your car, and laptop/computer and try writing again. If this doesn't work the DME may have been left in a state where it will not receive a write and needs to be reset. Simply unplug the neg. terminal on the battery for a couple minutes to allow the DME to completely reset then reconnect and try again. If this fails you can also attempt a force write.

I loaded a bin file and it completed fine, but now my car won't start/run correctly?:

It's probably just a bad bin i.e. poorly modified for one reason or another. This is where your stock bin comes in handy. Just reload it and start fresh, or try loading another bin that you know someone else has used succesffully.

Fueling!

N54 compressor wheel key chains

$
0
0
We literally had 100's of stock N54 comp wheels in bins that we will never use again, it was either sell them for scrap or do something cool with them. We will now be throwing one of these in with every order, anodized clear, or black take your pick..:D
Attached Images
   

WGDC Base Compiliation Comparison

$
0
0
I have an interest, and I am sure many of those new to tuning would like to see, is the mid-top end WGDC base comparison among all the users of ATR and TP.

Those like myself need "guides" to follow, an example, too see if we are going in the right direction. This will only serve as an example for those learning how to calibrate their WGDC base table and its variance amoung other N54 cars

Please make sure to atleast state the Year and chasis of your N54. Also boost to tapper range. Please post legit WGDC base tables with little to no overshoots

2011 335is / 19 - 16 PSI

Click here to enlarge


Feel free to add further comment and discussion
Attached Images
 

HPFP Tease

$
0
0
Figured with all the fuel talk I would give you guys a little tease of what we have coming up.. The picture should speak for itself on what we are running. This is the main part of the kit, but it of course comes with everything needed to make it a plug and play system(keep in mind this is the prototype, the final product very well have some design changes). Sticky will be making the full announcement soon. I included one log, this is on 100% E85, semi aggressive stage 2 tune 22 psi peak, OTS AFRs are being requested as we wanted to test with as much demand on the fuel system as we could, no other fuel is added, Walbro 450 in bucket, to Walbro 450 inline on the LPFP side. More info will be released when we feel its ready, please keep the questions to a minimum as we are not prepared to release anymore info than this right now.

The little dip at the beginning is by design of how we are having the system come in, the lowest that drop goes is still over 2200 PSI
Attached Images
  

Codes 2A94 and 3100 This Morning

$
0
0
I was cruising at about 50 in 4th gear this morning on my way to work when all of a sudden I get a reduced power warning. I check the code with my Cobb AP and 2A94 (Crankshaft sensor, signal missing) and 3100 popped up.

The car was stuck in gear and wouldn't change to D from M mode. I came to a light, cleared the code and the 2A94 went away but the 3100 remains. Car drove fine but I didn't try to get on it at all.

Any thoughts on what's causing these codes? First thing that comes to mind is the obvious which is a bad crankshaft sensor.

New clutch, Some E85....Your Opinion?

$
0
0
http://datazap.me/u/witty4242/wit-re...7&mark=165-181

Hey guys just put 1000 miles on the new spec 3+ clutch, added 5 gallons of fuel that tested to e82 and was running my pump gas/meth flash. I may up the timing but want to see if you guys think I should add some fuel. LPFP looks healthy. Let me know your criticism/concerns. This was my second pull so you can see the avg ign. is still learning down and eventually settled at 0.2.

The Car-
2010 135I
jb4 G5 ISO, MAP 3 55 ADD
DP's, DCI, CP/BOV
approximately 36 percent ethanol content

Over 12 AFR - dicey??

$
0
0
Am I the only one here who think's its a bit dicey to bring the AFR above 12? I like to keep mine in the 11.2-11.8 range then maybe stretch it out to 12.2 up top.. or am I just being a pussy?

Fuel Pressure Target(homo) - BB Flash / Tuner Pro

$
0
0
Can anyone here explain this table to me, and what exactly it controls?

Code 2AAA - variable suction unit, plausibility. What is a variable suction unit?

$
0
0
Hi guys. My 335i came up with the service engine soon light today and I checked it with the JB4 dash display and it came back 2AAA - variable suction unit, plausibility. Google search came back with nothing useful. I then started browsing various realm pages and there is nothing labelled variable suction unit. I suspect that it is related to either of the boost control solenoid or the vacuum pump. It's been running either JB4 Map 1 or Map 2 for the last 18 months or so by the previous owner and it's only been back on Map 0 for a day. Could the issue just be an adaptation-related once-off?Should I clear the code and do nothing or clear the code and reset adaptations? Cheers

Started car, engine malfunction, smoke... help

$
0
0
Someone please calm my nerves... I drove my car yesterday, no issues at all. Last night we got a ton of rain, they had predicted 2+ inches. I just I went out and started it... engine malfunction, reduced power. Seems like a good amount of white smoke out of both exhausts. I'm not sure if it is actually smoke or a ton of condensation at this point. It's incredibly moist (giggity) out, foggy as hell etc...

opened my hood and it's very damp/wet in there. Checked for codes, it's showing these:

P2AB4
P2EE6
P2ABD

thoughts!?

Anniversary Specials!

$
0
0
In celebration of our 10th year in business, we are having special promotions running through the month of May.


Speed Dampening:


BMW 335i brake packages - Starting at $799 installed

Start Your Flame Front:


BMW 335i spark plug service - Starting at $169


ECM Adjustments:

Cobb V3 Accessport $895 shipped.


Tire Holders:

Volk, Advan, Gram Lights, SSR Wheels on Sale (Email sales@fftec.com us for pricing)

Bonus Item:

FFTEC Top Mount Twin Scroll BMW Single Turbo Hot Parts Kit (Email sales@fftec.com for pricing)

If you don't see your needed service listed, contact us for your customized service and sale price.

FFTEC Motorsports
31911 Hayman Street
Hayward, CA, 94544
510-475-5855

Need IJEOS Stock Bin File

$
0
0
Anyone have a stock IJEOS bin file they can send me? I lost my original stock file.

135i Single Turbo Cutout Dyno Testing

$
0
0
Hey guys,

Had some spare time today so I decided to do a little dyno testing on the single turbo 135i. As a few know we've been running it through the relatively small factory 135i exhaust system as I like to keep the car quiet on the track. But I've always wondered how much power is being left on the table.

I did a couple runs as the car was raced a couple weeks ago at Shift Sector, 24psi, cutout closed. Then opened the cutout and tested some progressively higher boost levels. At equivalent boost levels the cutout yielded around 15-20whp throughout the curve. And through some tuning I ultimately settled on 27psi tapering to 25psi which kicked in another 15-20whp. This is about as much power as I want to push through the FFTEC 5862 TS kit. Compared to stealth mode we're looking at around 40whp more under most of the curve here with the free flow exhaust and a little more boost. Not too shabby. This along with a little more weight reduction might get that 60-130 down in the mid 5s? We'll find out when it cools down.

Did I mention it was HOT today? Click here to enlarge

Click here to enlarge
Click here to enlarge
Click here to enlarge
Click here to enlarge
Click here to enlarge
Click here to enlarge

Is my rear turbo toast? Car runs slower than before.. 1.5 sec slower 100-200 on racelogic


installed my intercooler today...

$
0
0
Now I know where all my oil has been hiding!
On a more serious note though there was a significant buildup of oil where the boost hose connects to the intercooler. I am thinking I had a boost leak. Is it common in these? No other signs of oil in that area. Anyway it was a pain in my ass cause I didn't have the right tools to cut the bumper support. the 45 degree fitting they gave me was a couple inches too long, and one of the hose clamps was missing the nut but after a few hours its finally in, just waiting until tomorrow to put the thousand 8mm screws back in the bumper and trim panels. Would have been nice if the instructions were for my car but apparently the 335 is a little different and these have been discontinued a few years ago so there's no support

Ms vs Bike

$
0
0


Fast forward to the 9:55 mark, kind of a $#@!ty video but my gopro $#@!ed up. But now I can add a bike to my belt.

RB Turbo - 11.1 - 11.2 @ 127 all day

$
0
0
Had a great time with the 135i at Tri-State on Saturday with a few friends.
Car ran well and very consistent all day long.


Only issues were 1/2 tank of gas and a on-off headwind


3 passes 11.2 @ 127 was pretty much every pass
1 pass of 11.5 @ 128 where I tried launching in 1st gear but that was a waste..
11.1 @ 127 was my best pass of the day



Video Kills:

1 - 95M3 Auto - Stock - Just fun to see the difference between a low 15 / high 14 car and a low 11
2 - LS3 Trailblazer SS - F1D Procharger - Full Build - Claimed 700+ whp


Few of the slips.
Click here to enlarge

OEM vs 255 vs 455 walbro flow rates......hmmmm

$
0
0
Just in case some folks have not seen this or have forgotten about it. Terry did some very good testing here. Which I believe is awesome knowledge to have especially with Vargas coming out with his HPFP upgrade
Attached Images
 

questions about flash/fuel power levels

$
0
0
hey guys have a few questions about some of the various flash power levels.
right now mods are jb4g5 iso, dci, wedge e30 flash, walboro 255 pump upgrade and e40 and car runs strong but it gets hard to keep the e40 mix in the car.

I seen terry post up about a car with my same mods minus a fmic but the car didn't have the walboro in it and it made 400 at the wheels.

how much power would I lose by using the bms pump flash and 93 vs the wedge flash and e40???

my best run was a 12.2 the the wedge flash and e40 what can I expect to run with the pump flash on map 2 and 93???

thanks.
Viewing all 16270 articles
Browse latest View live