MOTIV Single turbo DIY

This DIY took forever due to the high volume of pics. I made the steps as complete as posible but some common sense is still needed. Pics where taken with car on jackstands, I tried to get the best camera angles possible. I had over 435 pics to sort thru and edit LOL!

I'd like to give a special shout-out to the following people who were very helpful during this installation: AUBEAST, Jake Hershorin and Bobby Downes at MOTIV.

* Pay close attention to everything worded in "Red"

* Look over TIPS section (below) before proceeding, it is VERY important to this install.

* I did not instruct how to take OEM turbos off, instead follow my "RB install thread" (Link below)

* I assume you know how to jack your car up, change/drain oil & coolant and take undertrays off, cowl, engine cover off so I did not waste time on a DIY for these items.

* I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY OR LIABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE SUSTAINED TO YOU OR YOUR CAR. It worked on mine and it will work on yours.

What is Motiv motorsports? Let me tell you:

Jake Hershorin and Bobby Downes founded MOTIV with the goal of bringing high quality performance parts to specific BMW platforms. Jake has been tuning on multiple platforms for years. With a background in standalones and flash tuning; calibrating the N54 was a natural fit. After cofounding proTUNING Freaks a few years ago, he saw a need for high quality, high performance parts to power the numerous N54 and N55 cars they were calibrating. Bobby has been into cars since before he can even remember. Just like his father, his desire to make fast cars faster was a passion. After picking up a 2008 135i with the intention of turning it into an all-out NASA time attack car, his passion to continue building performance parts for the track grew. The track car was a project Bobby took on in order to display the level of craftsmanship and performance he is known for. Together, Jake and Bobby have created a team, while they have a ton of expertise, still consider themselves enthusiasts who simply want to make fast cars the right way – reliably and efficiently. How is this done? Proper R&D and testing until a product meets our extremely strict standards.

Hardware and torque values: (please tell me if you find something I missed, I will add it in)

Hardware:

Induction tube = T30
Manifold bolts = 11MM
Wastegate & exhaust clamps = T30
Wastegate bango fitting = 10MM
Wastegate plug allen = 5MM
coolant tank = 10MM
Fan assembly = T27
Water pump = E12
Water pipe/pump clamps = 7MM
Water pipe = E8 + 7MM
thermostat =E12
Center oil drain = T45
Turbo oil fitting = 6MM Allen
Coolant block & coolant fitting = T30
Vacuum canisters = 13MM
Vacuum canister bracket = 10MM
Charge pipe clamps = 7MM
Compressor housing clamps =7MM
Coolant Bango fitting = 13MM
Rubber mount to motor mount = 16MM
Motor mount to subframe = E12
Motor mount to SF bolt Motiv = 13MM
Motor mount to SF nut Motiv 13MM
Motor mount to motor = 19MM
Subframe to car = 18MM
Subframe heatshield = T30
Upper control arm bolt & nut = 18MM
Lower control arm bolt & nut = 18MM
Steering rack bolt = E12
Steering rack nut = 16MM
Sway bar hardware = 17MM
Sway bar bushing mounts = 13MM

Torque specs:

Rubber mount to motor mount = 35 ft Lbs
Motor mount to subframe = 18 Ft Lbs
Motor mount to motor = 41 Ft Lbs
manifold to head = 14.8 Ft Lbs
Subframe to chassis = 80 Ft Lbs
V-brace to chassis = 59 Ft Lbs
Tension strut to subframe = 74 Ft Lbs
Upper control arm to SF = 74 Ft Lbs
Tie-Rod to knuckle = 121 Ft Lbs
Sway bar to subframe = 18 Ft Lbs
End-links to swaybar = 44 Ft Lbs
Strut brace to chassis = 33 Ft Lbs
Coolant supply line to block = 5.9 Ft Lbs ( I went heavier)
Oil pressure line to block = 5.9 Ft Lbs ( I went heavier)
Rear coolant block off fitting = 5.9 Ft Lbs ( I went heavier)
Bango fittings to Turbo = 11 Ft Lbs
Water-pump to block = 7.4 Ft Lbs
Thermostat to Water-pump 7.4 Ft Lbs
Coolant expansion tank = 14 Ft Lbs
water-pipe to block = 6 Ft Lbs

TIPS

*I HIGHLY suggest leaving subframe in car during the entire install, since this kit requires motor to be at OEM spec for parts to line up. I found that with subframe out the motor moves slightly and puts turbo housing in wrong position. The Turbo must remain 3/8" away from frame rail for Charge pipe to be in OEM location or intake pipe will not fit. Charge pipe must be 1/4" from frame rail, I had subframe out, had everything lined up, put motor back in and it thru everything off.

**I would suggest taking subframe out to remove Oem turbos and waterpump. After these items are completed put Subframe back in There is a ton of room with subframe in to do this install. motiv designed this kit so it can be done with subframe in.

*** Leave all V-bands loose until final step so turbo can be moved, wastegate ect for final placement.

**** Pics where all taken with subframe out so pics may very slightly with what you :

Lets Begin!!!

MOTIV quality:

This kit can simply not be touched in the quality department, no exspense was spared!

STEP 1: SUBFRAME REMOVAL

STEP 2: FAN AND COOLANT RESERVOIR TANK

STEP 3: VACUUM PUMP LINES

STEP 4: INDUCTION TUBE REMOVAL

So awesome to have these restrictive POS off! LOL

STEP 5: OCC MOD

This was brought to my attention by AUBEAST. Having an OCC on a single turbo setup is not a great idea since it creates a great deal of pressure from the OCC restriction. He stated he actually saw oil droplets on the OCC hose from extreme pressure. So I decided to vent to atmosphere like he did. This is my version with his parts.

STEP 6: INTAKE PLATE INSTALL

STEP 7: WATERPUMP REMOVAL

I suggest installing a new waterpump and thermostat, mine are both fairly new.

STEP 8: MANIFOLD INSTALL

Most beautiful, well-engineered piece I've ever seen.

STEP 9: O2 SENSOR INSTALL

I suggest getting all new sensors but that's just me being a perfectionist. LOL

STEP 10: TURBO FITTINGS

NOTE: In some of the pictures you'll notice that the turbo is already installed on the car. Half the fittings go on the car and half go on the turbo. I suggest putting the high pressure SS oil line on the turbo, then all the fittings on the block, after that, then install the turbo (see Step 12). Coolant lines will go on after the turbo is installed. The oil drain line will be almost the last step. It goes on with the motor mount.

STEP 11: WATERPUMP AND PIPE REINSTALL

STEP 12: TURBO INSTALL

Leave V-Band on turbo loose enough for adjustments later on. Keep an eye on your clamp, be sure it can be accesed later at final tighting. Compressor housing on turbo MUST be no greater than 3/8" from frame rail.

STEP 13: WASTEGATE AND DOWNPIPE INSTALL

Leave V-Band on turbo loose enough for adjustments later on. Keep an eye on your clamp, be sure it can be accesed later at final tighting.

STEP 14: MOTOR MOUNT, COOLANT AND OIL LINE INSTALLATION

NOTE: You may notice that in some of these pics the subframe is already installed because for the DIY I have to show you how the motor mount bolts to the subframe.

STEP 15: SUBFRAME REINSTALL

It's EXTREMELY important to reinstall the subframe at this point as the motor MUST be at OEM spec prior to turbo and FMIC installation.

STEP 16: MAC SOLENOID AND VACUUM LINE ROUTING

I didn't actually show how to route the vacuum lines as I'll leave it up to you - it's really just personal preference. Follow the diagram provided by Terry@BMS.

STEP 17: FMIC PLUMBING

This is the most precise part of the entire tutorial. The turbo housing must be no greater than 3/8" from the frame rail. If it is any greater, it will cause the charge pipe to be more than 1/4" from the frame rail causing intake filter to not fit due to lack of space. This is why it's imperative to leave the V-Band loose on the components and motor is in OEM position.

***NOTE*** AFTER ALL THE PLUMBING IS LINED UP, THE INTERCOOLER IS INSTALLED (NO DIY ON THAT - SORRY), TIGHTEN ALL V-BANDS/CLAMPS ON THE TURBO, WASTEGATE AND DOWNPIPE. DON'T FORGET THE DOWNPIPE DUMP TUBE CLAMP. THIS IS WHY IT'S SO IMPORTANT TO POSITION THE CLAMPS SO THEY ARE EASILY ACCESSIBLE.

STEP 18: AC LINE

NOTE: AC lines can be easily bent by hand.

STEP 19: COOLANT TANK, HEATSHIELD AND FILTER INSTALL

NOTE: If you have an aftermarket oil cooler, you'll have to modify that heatshield slightly like below.